dátum: 8.8.2020
začiatok: Topárti camp (HUN)
cieľ: Balmazújváros (HUN)
checkpointy: Tiszafüred (Topárti camp) – NP Hortobágy – Hortobágy (obec) – Balmazújváros
náročnosť: mierne náročná
typ bajku: MTB, trek
Musíme vyraziť zrána. Ale čím viac bajkerov, tým viac zlozvykov. Jeden by si ešte pospal, druhý potrebuje poriadne raňajočky, henten má čas… Vyrazili sme tesne pred 10:00. Takže najväčšej páľave na pusztatine sa na tutovku nevyhneme. Prvá zastávka je hneď po pár minútach a vedie do obchodu Spar. Prím nákupu tvoria najmä nápoje, prevažuje pivo. Sadáme na naše dvojkolesové tátoše a ideme. Dnes nás čaká maďarská puszta. Sám som zvedavý, čo to bude. Internety hovorila o rovinatej ploche, kde naokolo nie je dokopy nič, len pustatina. Táto zem patrí pod Národný park Hortobágy a ide o jednu z najväčších trávnatých stepí v Európe. Je zapísaná aj v zoznam svetového dedičstva UNESCO. Na jednom portáli tento kraj opisujú ako malé Mongolsko, kde sa pasú kone a hovädzí dobytok s veľkými rohmi. Raz jeden „politik“ o Maďaroch povedal, citujem: „To boli mongoloidné typy s krivými nohami a ešte hnusnými koňmi.“ (pripomenúť si ho môžeš TU) Asi na tom predsa len niečo bude 😀 Uvidíme, či natrafíme na nejakého toho koňa, alebo hovädzinku.
Patkós Csárda
Tiszafüred opúšťame po cyklotrase 3A Kelet magyarországi kerékpárút, z obce nás konkrétne vyvedie ulica Debrecni útca. Tá nás dotrepe až na cestu prvej triedy, treba teda dávať pozor na autá a kamióny. Po nej fičíme len 4 km a odbočíme naľavo. Prichádzame k Patkós Csárde. Tu je asi na dlhú dobu posledná šanca dať si niečo pod zub. Túto možnosť nevyužívame. Kukáme na mapy, kadiaľ máme pokračovať. Prihovorí sa k nám starší český manželský pár, ktorý asi po dlhšej dobe počul nejakú nemaďarskú reč. Tak sme hodili menší pokec a vybrali sme sa na druhú stranu cez cestu, kde už je vjazd za našim dobrodružstvom do malého Mongolska. Pani nám spravila ešte spoločnú foto, na pamiatku sme sa sfotili aj s ňou a jedeeem. Začína sa Národný park Hortobágy.
Maďarské savany
Na začiatku trasy nás uvítala hejda vran a blatistá cesta. Zadrbaniu sa nevyhneme, ale je to ešte v norme. Bolo aj horšie. Trasa, ktorú práve začíname patrí pod Eurovelo 14.
Po chvíli sa ocitáme na trávnatej lúke. Zošúchaná cesta od traktora nám určuje smer. Najviac naspeedovaný je Ďuri. Hoci má naložený náklad ako keby šiel na mesiac na Kamčatku, tak si to upaľuje o 106. Ďuri je ten týpek v oranžovom, ktorý je furt o „krok“ pred nami.
Máme za sebou cca 6 km od kedy sme vošli do týchto maďarských saván. Tráva je vcelku ok, až do chvíľ, keď sa jej výška niekoľko násobne navýši. Brodiť sa v nej pri teplotách cca 30°C je celkom pecka. Ide ťava Saharooou…spieva sa v jednej mega pesničke 😀 … nejako takto sa cítime aj my, aj keď piesočnatá púšť to úplne nie je. Neviem, či fatamorgána, alebo čo, ale zrazu po 10 km ničoho sa ocitáme v malom „lesíku“. Zopár stromov na jednom mieste, kde sú síce komáre, ktorých je všade až až, ale ten tieň je luxus. Dáme tam niečo pod zub, oddychneme a frčíme dál.
Už o pár minút sa nám naskytnú krásne scenérie. Trávnaté polia a slamené baly, ktoré nemajú konca…
Mapy nás upozorňujú, že pred nami sú nejaké močiare. Zopár ich už po ceste bolo, niektoré boli celkom rozsiahle a museli sme pomedzi nich kľučkovať. Čoskoro sa ocitáme pri nejakej budove. Pali vravel, že tam bude csárda. Všetci natešení, že konečne buchneme pivec. No realita bola iná, budova bola closed a internety mi práve hovoria, že tam bolo nejaké múzeum. My sme si našli flek pod stromami, prepotené tričká sme dali trošku presušiť a otvorili sme si svoje tekuté zálohy. Mne aj Marcelovi celkom ulahodilo pivo Dreher. Po pauze sadáme na bajky, ale onedlho riešime problém. Jedna vodnato-blatistá plocha nám zatarasila cestu a tak si bajky celkom slušne užili bahenný kúpeľ. Trošku sme ich vyutierali trávou a nájdenými palicami, zvyšok opadá cestou. Po pár metroch sa cesta rozdeľuje. Cyklotrasa pokračuje naľavo, my točíme napravo. Všade blato a voda. Ocitneme sa na hlavnej ceste, prejdeme kolmo cez ňu, kde pokračuje nejaká trasa. Premýšľame, či má význam sa trepať týmto smerom, nakoľko blato, voda a vysoká tráva môže byť problém. Nemá. Ideme teda na hlavnú cestu…
Hortobágy (obec)
Na nej sme to rozbehli. Išli sme v pelotóne s priemerkou tesne pod 30 km/h. Spolu sme takto dali necelých 13 km. Posledný kilometer som šiel už z posledného, ale vidina blížiacej sa obce a tým pádom jedla a piva ma hnala vpred. Vchádzame do obce s príznačným názvom Hortobágy. Hneď po ľavej strane je Hortobágyi Csárda, cieľ je teda daný. Sadli sme si von na terasu, objednali pivá a nejaké tie špecialitky.
Prostredie tejto typickej maďarskej reštaurácie bolo veľmi príjemné a na pohľad všetko tip-top. Pekne upravená a priateľská obsluha, v pozadí hrala žívá hudba a vo vnútorných priestoroch bolo urobené symbolické múzeum. Lepšie 1x vidieť ako 100x čítať…
Tak ako to už u nás býva pravidlom, tak technické problémy sa nám nevyhli ani tentokrát. Marcel dostal defekt, tak okrem jedla si vychutnal aj opravu bajku. Na druhej strane cesty, oproti csárde, sa nachádzajú turistické atrakcie. Sú tam stánky s občerstvením a rôznymi suvenírmi. Za zmienku určite stojí most, cez ktorý sme vošli do obce. Deväťklenbový most je významnou pamiatkou tejto oblasti. Bol postavený v roku 1833 ako najdlhší cestný kamenný most v historickom Maďarsku spred roku 1921. V blízkosti sa nachádza akási „veľká klietka“, kde bolo kvantum bocianov. Tiež nejaká turistická haluz.
Balmazújváros
Prvotný plán tohto dňa bol dobajkovať až do Debrecínu. Tento plán mal trhliny už hneď od začiatku, keď sme vyrazili pomerne neskoro a úplne padol, keď sme sa vyšťavili na horúcej puszte a dlho zdržali v csárde. Hľadali sme teda nejaký finish point, kde sa dotrepeme a odkiaľ sa bude dať vlakom vrátiť späť do kempu. Takouto alternatívou bolo mesto Balmazújváros. Na konci obce Hortobágy sme odbočili naľavo a dostali sme sa na panelovú cestu, ktorú obklopujú polia.
Už som ani neveril a zrazu buuum – pred nami ohradené stádo typickej hovädzinky s veľkými rohami. Ešte že boli ohradené, lebo pohľady niektorých kusov neboli veľmi prívetivé. Pohľad to bol ale úchvatný.
Pokračujeme ďalej a až teraz začala byť sranda. Pali hovoril, že ideme po cyklotrase. Čím ďalej sme šli, tým ďalej som mal väčšie pochybnosti, že či tade niekedy predtým šiel vôbec bicykel. Šli sme viacmenej popri železničných koľajach, ale terén bol len nevychodená tráva. To bolo ešte ok, ale tráva sa zmenila na vysokú lúčnu trávu, ktorou sa trebalo brodiť, sem tam nejaká ta mláčka, ktorú bolo potrebné obísť, nejaký ten ker a tak podobne. Na okolo okrem koľajníc nič. V jednom momente bolo v diaľke vidieť starú klasickú studňu.
Unavení a umorení sme dobojovali a došli sme do cieľu. Nakoľko sme prišli z poľa, tak sme sa ocitli niekde na konci obytnej zóny a evokovalo to vo mne dedinu. Netušil som, že sa z toho vykľuje mestečko. Preto sme sa šupli hneď do prvej krčmy čo sme zbadali a doplnili tekutiny. Miestni štamgasti museli mať podívanú a čumeli jak diví, keď videli, že Pali šiel na ženské toalety a ja som vyskočil z okna na terasu, nakoľko to bola bližšia cesta 😀 Buchli sme pivo a kukli na net čo ďalej. Balmazújváros je mestečko s vyše 17 000 obyvateľmi a keď sme vygooglili, že sa tu nachádza nejaké kúpalisko, tak sme až pookriali. Ideme tam. Kupko Kamilla Gyógyfürdő sme našli pomerne rýchlo a nakoľko už bolo po 17:00, tak vstupné bolo zlacnené. Mám pocit, že cena bola cca 1,5€. Bazény, termálna voda, langoše…proste parádička. Úplná topka po vyčerpávajúcej bajkovačke, kupko sme proste vychytali.
Po osviežení sme sa odviezli na železničnú stanicu, naložili bajky do vlaku a poď ho späť do kempu v Tiszafüred. Cestovné lístky za nás a za bajky činili celkom slušnú dĺžku.
Malé Mongolsko sa nám dnes ukázalo v plnej kráse. Za horúceho počasia nám dalo zabrať, ale o to aj šlo. Tráva, blato, močiar, tráva… všetko má svoje čaro a to platí aj o maďarskej puszte. Csárda bola príjemným spestrením s ukážkou maďarskej kuchyne a topkou na záver bolo osviežujúce kúpalisko. Takže dnešok hodnotím 5 hvězdiček z možných pěti.
Pozri si videjko:
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počet km: 55,48km
max. rýchlosť: 31,7 km/h
priemerná rýchlosť: 15,4 km/h
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